Thickening Shampoo Vs. Volumizing Shampoo: Differences (& How to Choose)

If you’re looking to add more body, fullness and lift to your hair, you’ve likely come across thickening and volumizing shampoos on the market. While these terms are often used interchangeably, there are actually some key differences between thickening shampoos and volumizing shampoos in terms of how they work and the hair types and concerns they are best suited for.

In this guide, we’ll dive deep into the world of thickening and volumizing shampoos. We’ll explore the structure of hair and how it impacts thickness and volume, break down how thickening and volumizing shampoos work, highlight the main differences between them, provide guidance on how to choose the right one for your needs, and share best practices for incorporating these shampoos into your hair care routine. Whether you have fine, thin hair you want to plump up or are looking to add va-va-voom volume to your style, read on to become an expert in all things thickening and volumizing shampoos.

What Is the Structure of Hair, and How Does It Affect Thickness and Volume?

To understand how thickening and volumizing shampoos work, it’s helpful to first have a basic understanding of the structure of hair and what factors influence its thickness and volume.

The anatomy of a hair strand

Each hair on your head is made up of two main parts:

1. The hair follicle – This is the part of the hair that resides below the surface of the skin. It contains the hair root, which is made up of proteins and is fed by blood vessels that provide nutrients for hair growth.
2. The hair shaft – This is the visible part of the hair that extends above the skin’s surface. The hair shaft consists of three layers:

• The medulla – This is the innermost layer of the hair shaft. It is soft and thin and is not always present, especially in fine hair.
• The cortex – The middle layer of the hair shaft, the cortex provides strength, color and texture to the hair. It is made up of long proteins called keratin that are twisted like a spiral ladder.
• The cuticle – The outermost layer, the cuticle is made up of overlapping cells that look like shingles on a roof under a microscope. The cuticle protects the inside of the hair shaft and is responsible for giving hair its shine.

Factors that affect hair thickness and volume

Several factors can influence the thickness and volume of an individual’s hair, including:

• Genetics – Genes inherited from your parents play a big role in determining the thickness, volume and overall appearance of your hair. Genetic factors affect the size and shape of the hair follicle, which influences the diameter of the hair shaft.
• Age – As we get older, our rate of hair growth slows and the hair follicles can start to shrink, leading to finer, thinner hair. Hormonal changes that occur with age, like menopause, can also impact hair thickness and volume.
• Hair type – The natural texture of your hair, whether it is fine, coarse, straight, wavy or curly, can affect how thick and voluminous it appears. Fine hair has a smaller diameter so it may appear thinner and flatter, while coarse hair has a larger diameter and may look fuller.
• Hair density – This refers to the number of individual hair strands on your head. Higher density equals more strands and thus fuller-looking hair, while lower density means fewer strands and hair that may appear thinner.
• Hair porosity – Porosity relates to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. High porosity hair has gaps and holes in the cuticle, allowing moisture to easily enter the hair shaft but also quickly escape. Low porosity hair has a tightly bound cuticle so it is difficult for moisture to penetrate. Both high and low porosity can impact the volume and thickness of hair.
• Health of the hair and scalp – The overall health and condition of your hair and scalp can influence its appearance. Damage from heat styling, chemical processing, environmental stressors and poor diet can all lead to thin, brittle, breakage-prone hair. Build-up on the scalp and issues like dandruff can also impact volume.

Understanding the basic structure of hair and the various internal and external factors that can affect its thickness and volume provides the foundation for learning how thickening and volumizing shampoos can enhance the appearance of your hair. Next we’ll take a closer look at each type of shampoo and how they work.

What Are Thickening Shampoos, and How Do They Work?

Thickening shampoos are formulated to temporarily plump up the diameter of individual hair strands to create the appearance of thicker, fuller hair. They achieve this in a few key ways:

Adding proteins to reinforce the hair shaft

Many thickening shampoos contain hydrolyzed proteins like wheat, soy and vegetable proteins. These proteins have been broken down into smaller fragments so they can adhere to the hair shaft and fill in gaps in the cuticle, bulking up each strand. Some common proteins to look for in thickening shampoo ingredients include:

• Hydrolyzed wheat protein
• Hydrolyzed soy protein
• Hydrolyzed vegetable protein
• Hydrolyzed keratin
• Hydrolyzed rice protein
• Hydrolyzed silk protein

Coating strands with polymers

Along with proteins, thickening shampoos often contain polymers that wrap around the hair shaft to add diameter and volume. These polymers create a thin film on the outside of the hair, plumping it up. Some examples of thickening polymers include:

• Polyquaternium-7
• Polyquaternium-10
• Polyquaternium-11
• PVP/VA copolymer
• VP/VA copolymer

Removing build-up and residue

In order for the proteins and polymers in thickening shampoos to effectively adhere to the hair, the hair shaft needs to be clean and free of excess oil, dirt and styling product build-up. That’s why most thickening shampoos also contain gentle cleansing agents to remove residue and create a clean canvas for the thickening ingredients to attach to. Look for surfactants like:

• Sodium laureth sulfate
• Sodium lauryl sulfate
• Cocamidopropyl betaine
• Sodium cocoyl isethionate
• Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate

Providing a volume boost at the roots

In addition to plumping up the hair shaft, some thickening shampoos also contain ingredients that help lift hair at the roots for a volumizing effect. These can include lightweight moisturizers and natural extracts like:

• Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)
• Rice bran oil
• Bamboo extract
• Sage leaf extract

The proteins, polymers, cleansing agents and volumizing ingredients work together to create the look and feel of thicker, fuller hair with more body and movement. The effects are temporary – they will last until the next time you wash your hair. Thickening shampoos are ideal for fine, thin or aging hair that lacks volume. They help create the appearance of more hair density and thickness.

What Are Volumizing Shampoos, and How Do They Work?

Volumizing shampoos are designed to give flat, limp hair a lifted, fuller appearance by providing a boost at the roots and adding body and bounce throughout the lengths of the hair. They typically achieve volume in the following ways:

Gently cleansing to avoid weighing hair down

A primary goal of volumizing shampoos is to thoroughly cleanse the hair and scalp of oil and product build-up that can weigh hair down and make it look flat. However, they aim to do so gently, without stripping hair of the moisture it needs to look healthy. Most volumizing shampoos contain mild surfactants like:

• Sodium lauryl sulfate
• Sodium laureth sulfate
• Cocamidopropyl betaine
• Sodium cocoyl isethionate
• Sodium cocoamphoacetate

Adding lightweight moisture

While volumizing shampoos focus on cleansing, they also need to provide a small amount of moisture so hair doesn’t end up looking dry and brittle. The key is lightweight hydrators that won’t weigh hair down, such as:

• Glycerin
• Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)
• Hydrolyzed silk
• Aloe vera
• Honey

Lifting hair at the roots

Many volumizing shampoos include ingredients that help add lift and height at the roots, so hair doesn’t lie flat against the scalp. These often include:

• Polymer blends (e.g. polyquaternium-7, PVP)
• Collagen
• Wheat protein
• Keratin

Enhancing hair’s natural body

To boost overall volume throughout the lengths of the hair, not just at the roots, volumizing shampoos often feature ingredients that work to enhance hair’s natural body and movement, such as:

• Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)
• Hydrolyzed wheat protein
• Bamboo extract
• Silk amino acids

Like thickening shampoos, the volumizing effects of these shampoos are temporary, usually lasting until the next shampoo. Volumizing shampoos are best for fine, thin or oily hair types that are prone to falling flat and looking limp. They provide an instant boost and create the look of fuller, bouncier hair with more movement.

What Are the Key Differences Between Thickening and Volumizing Shampoos?

While thickening and volumizing shampoos share the same general goal of making hair look fuller, there are some key differences in how they work and the hair types and concerns they are most suitable for:

Another difference is that thickening shampoos are sometimes formulated with scalp-stimulating ingredients like caffeine or menthol to help encourage thicker hair growth over time, while volumizing shampoos typically do not contain these types of ingredients.

Ultimately, while they work in different ways, both thickening and volumizing shampoos can help you achieve the appearance of fuller, thicker, more voluminous hair. The right one for you will depend on your specific hair type and concerns.

How to Choose the Right Shampoo for Your Hair Type and Concerns

With so many thickening and volumizing shampoos on the market, how do you know which one is right for you? Here are some tips to help you choose:

Identify your hair type

Understanding your hair’s natural texture (fine, medium or coarse) and oil production (dry, normal or oily) is the first step in selecting any shampoo, including thickening and volumizing formulas. Here’s a quick guide:

• Fine hair has a small diameter and tends to fall flat and look limp. It can get oily quickly. Fine hair types may prefer volumizing shampoos that provide a gentle cleanse and root lift.
• Medium hair is the most common texture and has a moderate diameter. It tends to be relatively easy to style and manage. Medium hair types can often use either thickening or volumizing shampoos depending on their concerns.
• Coarse hair has a large diameter and tends to be dry and frizzy. It may look thick but lack movement and bounce. Coarse hair types may prefer thickening shampoos that add moisture and plump up strands.
• Dry hair lacks moisture and can look dull, brittle and prone to breakage. Dry hair types should look for thickening or volumizing shampoos that provide hydration without heaviness.
• Normal hair is balanced – neither too dry nor too oily. Normal hair types can usually use either thickening or volumizing shampoos depending on the look they want to achieve.
• Oily hair overproduces sebum and can look greasy and weighed down soon after washing. Oily hair types typically prefer volumizing shampoos that thoroughly cleanse and lift hair at the roots.

Identify your hair concerns

Beyond basic hair type, consider any specific hair issues or concerns you want to address. For example:

• Thinning hair that is losing density and volume with age may benefit from a thickening shampoo that makes hair look and feel fuller.
• Flat hair that lies limply against the head may prefer a volumizing shampoo that provides a volume boost at the roots and adds body.
• Color-treated hair that is dry or damaged can look for a thickening or volumizing shampoo specifically formulated for color care.
• Curly or textured hair may have different needs in terms of cleansing and hydration. Look for thickening or volumizing shampoos designed to enhance curls without weighing them down.

Read the labels

Once you’ve narrowed down your options based on your hair type and concerns, read the product labels carefully. Look for the key thickening and volumizing ingredients outlined earlier in this article, like proteins, polymers, panthenol and natural extracts.

Avoid any ingredients you know your hair is sensitive to, like sulfates, parabens, silicones or fragrances. If you have color-treated hair, make sure the shampoo is labeled as color-safe.

Consider your styling routine

Think about your regular styling habits when selecting a thickening or volumizing shampoo. If you frequently use heat tools like blow dryers, flat irons or curling wands, look for a shampoo that offers heat protection. If you have hard water, you may want a clarifying or chelating shampoo to remove mineral build-up that can weigh hair down.

Do a trial run

Everyone’s hair is unique, so what works for your best friend or your favorite beauty influencer may not be the ideal thickening or volumizing shampoo for you. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different products until you find the one that gives you the results you want.

Many brands offer trial sizes so you can test out a shampoo before committing to a full-size bottle. You can also read online reviews from people with similar hair types and concerns to get a sense of how a product performs.

By taking into account your individual hair type, concerns, styling needs and preferences, you’ll be well on your way to finding the best thickening or volumizing shampoo to help you achieve fuller, thicker, more voluminous-looking hair.

What Are the Best Practices for Using Thickening and Volumizing Shampoos?

Once you’ve found your perfect thickening or volumizing shampoo, follow these tips to get the most out of every wash:

Don’t overdo it

Thickening and volumizing shampoos can be very effective at creating fuller-looking hair, but using them too frequently can lead to dryness, breakage and irritation. Stick to shampooing every 2-3 days, or alternate with a gentler, sulfate-free formula in between washes.

Focus on the scalp

When applying thickening or volumizing shampoo, concentrate the product on your scalp and roots, using your fingertips to gently massage it in. This will help remove oil and build-up while also stimulating blood flow for a healthy scalp environment.

Rinse thoroughly

Make sure to rinse your hair completely after shampooing to remove all traces of product. Leftover shampoo can leave hair looking dull and weighed down, counteracting the volumizing effects.

Follow with conditioner

To keep your hair looking healthy and moisturized, always follow up your thickening or volumizing shampoo with a lightweight conditioner on the lengths and ends of your hair. Avoid applying conditioner directly to the roots, as this can make hair look greasy and flat.

Avoid heat styling when possible

While blow drying your hair upside down can provide a volume boost, try to limit the use of heat styling tools like flat irons and curling wands. The high heat can damage the hair cuticle, leading to breakage and making hair appear thinner and flatter over time. If you do use heat tools, always apply a heat protectant product first and use the lowest temperature setting that still allows you to style effectively.

Don’t overdo it with styling products

Using too much mousse, gel, pomade or other styling products can weigh hair down, especially if you have fine or thin strands. Stick to lightweight formulas and use them sparingly, focusing on the roots for volume. A good rule of thumb is to start with a pea-sized amount and only add more if needed.

Brush gently

Vigorous brushing, especially when hair is wet, can cause breakage and damage that thins out hair. Use a wide-tooth comb on wet hair to gently detangle, and opt for a soft bristle brush or a brush specifically designed for fine hair types when styling. Avoid yanking or pulling on tangles.

Get regular trims

Split ends can make hair look thin and scraggly, especially on the ends. Trimming off damaged ends every 6-8 weeks helps keep hair looking healthy and full. Even removing as little as a quarter inch can make a big difference in the appearance of thin or fine hair.

Eat a hair-healthy diet

What you put in your body can impact your hair’s thickness and volume. Hair is primarily made of protein, so eating a diet rich in protein sources like lean meats, eggs, fish, beans and nuts can provide the building blocks for strong, healthy hair. Foods high in vitamins A, C, D, E, iron, zinc and omega-3 fatty acids also support optimal hair growth and thickness.

To Wrap it All Up

Thickening and volumizing shampoos can be effective tools in creating the look of fuller, thicker hair, especially when combined with the right washing, styling and hair care practices. By understanding how these shampoos work, what ingredients to look for, and how to choose the best one for your hair type and needs, you can achieve the voluminous locks you desire.

While they won’t actually change the diameter of your hair strands or the number of hairs on your head, volumizing and thickening shampoos can go a long way in making the most of the hair you have. With consistent use and a little experimentation, you can build volume and body that lasts all day long. Here’s to happy, healthy, fuller-looking hair!