How Do You Maintain Coily Hair

Coily hair is beautiful, unique and requires special care to keep it healthy, defined and moisturized. If you have coily hair, also known as type 4 hair, you may be wondering what the best techniques and products are to maintain your natural texture.

This guide will cover everything you need to know about caring for coily hair, from cleansing and conditioning to styling and protecting your delicate coils.

What Is Coily Hair and Its Characteristics?

Coily hair, classified as type 4 on the hair typing system, has the tightest curl pattern of all hair types. The strands form densely packed coils in a zig-zag or corkscrew shape. Within the coily hair category, there are three subcategories:

• 4A hair has tightly coiled S-shaped curls about the diameter of a crochet needle.
• 4B hair has sharp angles like the letter Z with less visible definition.
• 4C hair has the tightest coils with almost no definition. The strands are often fine but densely packed together.

Some characteristics of coily hair include:

1. Highly textured with tiny curl circumference
2. Prone to dryness due to sebum having difficulty traveling down the shaft
3. Delicate and fragile, requiring gentle care to avoid breakage
4. Shrinks up to 70% of its actual length when dry
5. Can have low, normal or high porosity which impacts its ability to retain moisture
6. Versatile and can be styled in many ways with proper care and technique

Understanding your coily hair’s unique properties is essential for developing a hair care routine that will keep your curls healthy, defined and thriving. Coily hair requires regular moisturizing, gentle handling and protective styling to look and feel its best.

How to Cleanse Coily Hair

Cleansing is an important step in any hair care routine, but it’s especially crucial for coily hair which is prone to dryness and breakage. Here are some tips for gently cleansing coily hair:

1. Pre-poo with coconut oil or castor oil before shampooing to help retain moisture. Apply the oil to damp hair and let it sit for at least 30 minutes before washing.
2. Use a sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoo or co-wash (conditioner only washing) to avoid stripping the hair of its natural oils. Look for shampoos with gentle surfactants and nourishing ingredients like aloe vera, shea butter and oils.
3. Focus the shampoo mainly on the scalp and roots. Gently massage with the pads of your fingers to remove dirt and buildup. Avoid piling your hair on top of your head which can lead to tangles.
4. Rinse the hair thoroughly with lukewarm water. Hot water can further dry out the hair.
5. Limit shampooing to once per week or every other week. In between, you can refresh your curls with a co-wash or water rinse if needed.
6. Use a scalp exfoliator or detox treatment every few weeks to remove dead skin cells and product buildup that can clog follicles and impede hair growth. Look for products with ingredients like charcoal, clay or tea tree oil.

How to Condition Coily Hair

Conditioning is a non-negotiable step for maintaining healthy coily hair. Conditioners replenish moisture, soften, detangle and protect the hair. Here’s how to properly condition coily hair:

1. After shampooing or co-washing, apply a rinse-out conditioner from the mid-lengths to the ends of the hair. Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to distribute the product evenly.
2. Let the conditioner sit for 3-5 minutes to allow it to penetrate the hair shaft. You can cover your hair with a plastic cap to add heat and boost the conditioning effects.
3. Detangle your hair while the conditioner is still in. Start from the ends and work your way up to the roots using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Be gentle to avoid breakage.
4. Rinse the conditioner out with cool water. Avoid rinsing with hot water which can cause frizz and strip away moisture.
5. After rinsing, apply a leave-in conditioner to damp hair. This will add an extra layer of moisture and help seal the cuticle. Look for leave-ins with humectants like glycerin or aloe vera.
6. Once per week, use a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask to intensively nourish and strengthen the hair. Apply to damp hair and let it sit for 20-30 minutes before rinsing. You can use heat from a hooded dryer or steamer for deeper penetration.
7. For an extra boost of moisture, try the LOC/LCO method:

• L = Liquid or leave-in conditioner
• O = Oil like jojoba, grapeseed or argan to seal in moisture
• C = Cream styler to define and hold the curls

How to Style Coily Hair

Styling coily hair is all about enhancing your natural curl pattern while keeping your hair healthy and moisturized. Here are some tips and techniques for styling coily hair:

1. Always start with damp, freshly washed and conditioned hair. Styling products work best when applied to wet or damp hair.
2. Choose styling products that provide moisture, hold and definition without weighing the hair down. Look for ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, aloe vera and flaxseed gel. Avoid products with drying alcohols or heavy silicones.
3. Apply styling products in sections, making sure to coat each strand from root to tip. Use the shingling method to smooth and define each curl clump.
4. Air drying is the gentlest way to dry coily hair and maintain definition. You can sit under a hooded dryer on low heat to speed up the process. Avoid touching your hair too much while it dries to prevent frizz.
5. To stretch your curls and combat shrinkage, try banding, braiding or twisting the hair while damp and letting it dry overnight. Take the style down in the morning for elongated, voluminous curls.
6. Refresh your curls between wash days with a water-based spray or light leave-in conditioner. Lightly mist the hair, scrunch and let it air dry to revive your style.

Some popular coily hair styles include:

• Wash and go: Apply styling products to damp hair, scrunch and let air dry
• Twist out: Two-strand twist damp hair, let dry, then unravel for a defined, stretched look
• Braid out: Braid damp hair, let dry, then unbraid for a crimped, wavy texture
• Bantu knots: Coil damp hair into small buns all over the head, let dry, then unravel
• Puff: Gather hair at the crown of the head and secure with an elastic or hair tie

The key to styling coily hair is using the right products, techniques and tools to enhance your natural texture without causing damage or breakage.

How to Dry Coily Hair Properly

Drying is an essential step in any coily hair routine. Improper drying techniques can lead to frizz, tangles and damage. Here are some tips for gently drying coily hair:

1. After washing and conditioning, gently squeeze excess water from the hair with your hands. Avoid rubbing the hair with a regular towel which can cause friction and breakage.
2. Use a microfiber towel or old t-shirt to blot the hair instead. These materials are gentler and won’t rough up the cuticle. Scrunch the hair upwards towards the scalp to encourage curl formation.
3. Apply your leave-in conditioner and styling products to very wet hair. This will help lock in moisture and define your curl pattern.
4. Air drying is the best way to dry coily hair. Try to avoid touching or manipulating the hair as it dries to prevent frizz. You can periodically scrunch the hair with your hands to help it keep its shape.
5. If you need to speed up the drying process, use a hooded dryer or diffuser attachment on your blow dryer. Keep the heat on low and hover the diffuser around your head without touching the hair directly. Use the pixie diffusing method for more volume or the hover diffusing method for more definition.
6. To stretch your curls as they dry, try the banding method. Wrap sections of damp hair with elastic bands down the length to gently elongate the curls. Let the hair dry completely before removing the bands.
7. Once the hair is fully dry, scrunch out any crunchiness from gels or mousses with your hands. You can also fluff the roots with a pick for added volume.

Coily hair is delicate when wet, so handle it with care. Avoid heat styling as much as possible and always use a heat protectant if you must use direct heat. With the right drying techniques, you can achieve bouncy, defined curls without sacrificing the health of your hair.

How to Protect Coily Hair from Damage

Protecting coily hair from damage is also important for maintaining its health and length.

Make sure to:

1. Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase. Cotton pillowcases can absorb moisture from the hair and cause friction leading to tangles and breakage. Satin and silk allow the hair to glide smoothly and retain moisture.
2. Wear a satin or silk bonnet or scarf to bed. This will protect your hair from rubbing against your pillowcase and keep your style intact overnight.
3. Avoid tight hairstyles that put tension on the hair and edges. Styles like high ponytails, buns and braids can cause traction alopecia over time if worn too frequently.
4. Be gentle when styling and detangling. Use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb to remove tangles, starting from the ends and working your way up. Never brush coily hair when it’s dry which can lead to breakage.
5. Trim your hair every 8-12 weeks to remove split ends and maintain healthy hair. Regularly dusting the ends in between trims can also help prevent splits from traveling up the hair shaft.
6. Deep condition weekly to keep the hair moisturized and strong. Use a protein treatment every 4-6 weeks to help fortify the hair and prevent breakage.
7. Protect your hair from the elements. Wear a hat or scarf when out in the sun or cold weather. Use a humidifier in dry environments to add moisture back into the air and your hair.

With these protective measures into your regular hair care routine, you can minimize breakage, split ends and damage. Healthy hair is better able to retain length and maintain its natural curl pattern over time.

What Are Low Manipulation Styles for Coily Hair?

Low manipulation styles are hairstyles that require minimal daily styling and handling. They are ideal for coily hair which is prone to tangling and breakage.

Here are some examples of low manipulation styles for coily hair:

1. Two-strand twists: Part the hair into sections and twist each section around itself from root to tip. Secure the ends with a small elastic or by tucking them under. Leave the twists in for a few days, then unravel for a defined twist-out.
2. Braids: Similar to twists, braid each section of hair from root to tip. You can do traditional three-strand braids, cornrows, or other braid variations. Leave the braids in for up to a week before taking them down.
3. Bantu knots: Part the hair into small sections and coil each section around itself into a tight knot. Secure the knot with a small elastic or pin. Leave the knots in overnight or for a few days, then unravel for a curly, voluminous look.
4. Buns: Gather the hair into a high or low ponytail and wrap it around itself to form a bun. Secure with elastics or pins. You can leave some tendrils out around the face for a softer look.
5. Faux hawk: Part the hair into a mohawk section down the center of the head and secure with elastics or pins. You can twist, braid or pin the sides of the hair back to create a faux hawk effect.
6. Pineapple: Gather all the hair at the top of the head and secure with a loose scrunchie or elastic. This is a great way to preserve your curls overnight and prevent frizz. In the morning, simply take down the pineapple and fluff out your curls.
7. Buns: Twist or braid your hair into one or more buns secured with bobby pins or elastics. This keeps the ends tucked away and protected. You can do a single high bun, low bun, or multiple smaller buns all over the head.
8. Faux hawk: Create a mohawk effect by braiding or twisting the sides of the hair back and pinning them down. Leave the center section loose or style it into a braid or twist.

How to Maintain Protein-Moisture Balance for Coily Hair?

Maintaining the right balance of protein and moisture is crucial for the health of coily hair. Here are some tips:

1. Use a moisturizing deep conditioner weekly to replenish lost moisture. Look for conditioners with humectants like glycerin or honey that attract moisture to the hair.
2. Do a protein treatment every 4-6 weeks to strengthen the hair and prevent breakage. Use a product with hydrolyzed proteins that can penetrate the hair shaft.
3. Alternate moisture-rich wash days with protein-focused wash days to keep the balance in check. Pay attention to how your hair feels – if it’s mushy and limp, you need more protein. If it’s dry and brittle, you need more moisture.
4. Use leave-in conditioners and moisturizers that contain both water and protein to maintain the balance daily. The LOC or LCO method can help seal in moisture.
5. Avoid over-manipulating the hair which can disrupt the protein-moisture balance. Low manipulation and protective styles give the hair a break.

How Often Should You Trim/Dust Coily Hair?

Trimming or dusting the ends of coily hair can prevent split ends from traveling up the shaft. Regular trimming and dusting, combined with proper moisturizing and low manipulation, will help keep coily hair healthy, defined and growing optimally.

Here’s what you need to know:

1. Aim to trim your hair every 8-12 weeks to keep your ends healthy and your hair growing. More frequent trims may be needed if you have damage or split ends.
2. Dusting, which is trimming less than 1/4 inch of hair, can be done more frequently, about every 4-6 weeks. This helps keep the ends fresh without losing much length.
3. If you wear your hair in protective styles like braids or twists, you can trim your hair before installing the style, then dust the ends after taking it down 4-8 weeks later.
4. Use professional shears to ensure a clean cut. Dull scissors can cause more damage to the hair. If you’re not comfortable trimming your own hair, visit a professional stylist.
5. Stretch the hair before trimming to ensure an even cut. You can blow dry the hair on low heat or stretch it with braids or twists overnight.

How to Detangle Coily Hair Properly

Detangling coily hair can be a delicate process, but with the right techniques and tools, it doesn’t have to lead to breakage. The proper ways to detangling coily hair is to be gentle, patient and use plenty of moisture. Rushing or forcing through tangles will only lead to damage and breakage.

Here’s how to properly detangle coily hair:

1. Always detangle hair when it’s damp and coated in conditioner or a detangling product. The slip will help the comb or brush glide through the hair more easily.
2. Use a wide-tooth comb, detangling brush, or your fingers to gently remove tangles. Start from the ends of the hair and work your way up to the roots. Don’t force through knots.
3. Work in sections to make the process more manageable. Clip the hair into 4-8 sections and detangle each one individually.
4. Hold the hair at the roots as you detangle to avoid pulling or tugging on the scalp. Be patient and take your time.
5. If you come across a particularly stubborn knot, apply more conditioner and use your fingers to gently pull it apart. You can also use a detangling spray for extra slip.
6. Once the hair is fully detangled, rinse out the conditioner and style as desired. Be sure to use a leave-in conditioner to keep the hair moisturized.
7. To maintain your detangled hair, sleep on a satin pillowcase or with a satin bonnet, and use protective styles like twists or braids.

What Is Protective Styling for Coily Hair?

Protective styling is a crucial part of any healthy hair regimen for coily hair. It involves tucking the ends of the hair away and minimizing manipulation to prevent damage and breakage. Protective styling is a great way to give your coily hair a break and promote healthy growth. Just be sure to choose styles that work for your hair type and lifestyle, and always prioritize moisture and gentle handling.

Here’s what you need to know about protective styling for coily hair:

1. The goal of protective styling is to give your hair a break from daily styling and environmental stressors. It can help you retain length and moisture.
2. Some popular protective styles for coily hair include braids, twists, buns, updos, and wigs. These styles keep the ends of the hair hidden and protected.
3. When installing a protective style, be sure to start with clean, moisturized hair. Use a leave-in conditioner and oil to seal in moisture before styling.
4. Avoid styles that are too tight or heavy, as they can cause tension on the scalp and lead to breakage. Opt for looser, more comfortable styles.
5. Keep your protective style in for no longer than 4-8 weeks at a time to avoid product buildup and tangling. Be sure to moisturize your hair regularly while in the style.
6. When taking down a protective style, be gentle and patient. Use a detangling product and work in sections to avoid ripping or pulling on the hair.
7. Give your hair a break between protective styles to avoid over-manipulation. Wear your hair out in low manipulation styles like wash-and-gos or puffs for a week or two before reinstalling a protective style.

How to Deal With Shrinkage in Coily Hair?

Shrinkage is a natural part of having coily hair, but it can be frustrating when you want to show off your length.

Here are some tips for dealing with shrinkage:

1. Embrace it! Shrinkage is a sign of healthy, elastic hair. It means your curls are bouncy and defined.
2. To elongate your curls without heat, try stretching your hair with braids, twists, or banding. Install the style on damp hair and let it air dry overnight. Take down the style in the morning for stretched curls.
3. Use a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment on low heat to gently stretch the hair. Don’t pull or tug on the curls, just let the heat do the work.
4. Try a twist-out or braid-out style. These styles stretch the hair as they dry, leaving you with elongated, defined curls.
5. Apply a holding product like a gel or mousse to your hair while it’s wet. This will help weigh down the curls and reduce shrinkage as it dries.
6. Use the banding method to stretch your hair without heat. Wrap small sections of damp hair with elastic bands from root to tip. Let the hair dry completely before removing the bands.
7. Experiment with different products and techniques to find what works best for your hair. Some people find that heavy creams or butters help elongate their curls, while others prefer lighter, water-based products.

Can You Fix Frizzy Coily Hair?

Yes, you can fix frizzy coily hair with the right techniques and products. Frizz occurs when the hair cuticle is raised, allowing moisture to enter the hair shaft and swell the strands. Coily hair is especially prone to frizz due to its naturally dry texture and delicate curl pattern.

To tame frizz in coily hair:

1. Keep hair moisturized

• Use a sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoo and conditioner
• Deep condition weekly with a hydrating mask
• Apply leave-in conditioner and seal with an oil or butter
• Refresh curls with a water-based spray or light leave-in between washes

2. Style with definition

• Use a curl defining cream, gel, or mousse on wet hair
• Rake, smooth, or shingle products through hair to coat each strand
• Air dry or diffuse on low heat to set the style
• Once dry, gently scrunch out any crunch to soften curls

3. Protect hair while sleeping

• Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase
• Wear a satin bonnet or scarf to bed
• Pineapple hair at the top of head to preserve curls overnight

4. Avoid dehydrating ingredients

• Steer clear of products with drying alcohols or sulfates
• Look for humectants like glycerin or aloe vera to attract moisture

How to Avoid Hygral Fatigue in Coily Hair?

Hygral fatigue is a condition that occurs when the hair is exposed to too much moisture, causing the cuticle to swell and become weak. This can lead to breakage, frizz, and loss of definition. With some of the below tips, you can avoid hygral fatigue and keep your coily hair healthy, defined, and strong.

Here’s how to avoid hygral fatigue in coily hair:

1. Be mindful of how often you wash your hair. Coily hair tends to be drier and doesn’t need to be washed as frequently as other hair types. Aim for once a week or every other week, depending on your hair’s needs.
2. When you do wash your hair, use lukewarm water instead of hot. Hot water can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause the cuticle to swell.
3. Avoid leaving your hair wet for too long. Gently squeeze out excess water with a microfiber towel or t-shirt, then apply a leave-in conditioner and style as usual.
4. Deep condition your hair regularly to keep it strong and healthy. Look for deep conditioners with protein to help fortify the hair shaft.
5. Use a protein treatment every 4-6 weeks to keep the hair strong and resistant to hygral fatigue. Protein helps fill in gaps in the cuticle and prevents excess moisture from entering the hair shaft.
6. Avoid using too many humectants in your hair care products. Humectants like glycerin and honey can draw moisture from the air into your hair, which can be too much for coily hair in humid environments.
7. Protect your hair while you sleep with a satin pillowcase or bonnet. This will help prevent your hair from absorbing moisture from the air overnight.

To Wrap It All Up

Maintaining healthy, defined coily hair requires a consistent routine of cleansing, conditioning, moisturizing, and protective styling. With the tips outlined in this guide, you can keep your coils bouncy, shiny, and growing optimally.

Remember to be gentle with your hair, use products that work for your specific curl type, and embrace your natural texture. With patience and care, you can achieve the healthy, beautiful coily hair of your dreams.