How Do You Wash Kinky Coily Hair

What Are the Characteristics of Kinky Coily Hair?

Kinky coily hair, also known as Type 4 hair, has very distinct characteristics that set it apart from other hair types. Understanding these unique qualities is essential for properly caring for and maintaining the health of kinky coily hair.

Curl Pattern

The defining feature of kinky coily hair is its extremely tight curl pattern. Type 4 hair is made up of densely packed coils that can range from tight S-shapes to sharp Z-shaped angles. These coils are much smaller in diameter compared to looser curl types, sometimes being only about the width of a crochet needle.

The three subcategories of Type 4 hair are:

4A: Tightly coiled S-shaped curls, about the size of a crochet needle
4B: Sharp Z-shaped angles, less definition, more density
4C: Extremely tight Z-shaped coils, almost no visible definition

Density and Volume

Kinky coily hair tends to be very dense, with numerous strands packed closely together. This high density contributes to the significant volume often associated with Type 4 hair. When properly cared for, kinky coily hair can have impressive body and fullness.

Porosity

Porosity refers to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. Kinky coily hair can fall anywhere on the porosity spectrum:

High porosity: Cuticles are raised, allowing moisture to be absorbed easily but also quickly lost
Medium porosity: Cuticles are slightly raised, moisture absorption and retention is balanced
Low porosity: Cuticles are tightly sealed, making it difficult for moisture to penetrate but also preventing moisture loss

Knowing your hair’s porosity is crucial for selecting appropriate products and techniques to keep kinky coily hair hydrated.

Fragility and Shrinkage

Due to its unique structure, kinky coily hair is more fragile and prone to breakage compared to other hair types. The numerous twists and turns in the hair shaft create weak points that can easily snap when exposed to excessive manipulation or dryness.

Shrinkage is another common characteristic of kinky coily hair. The tight coils can cause the hair to appear much shorter than its actual length. Shrinkage can be as high as 75%, meaning that hair that appears shoulder-length when curly may actually reach the mid-back when stretched.

How Should You Prepare for Washing Kinky Coily Hair?

Properly preparing kinky coily hair before washing is crucial for minimizing tangles, breakage, and maintaining the overall health of the hair. Here are the essential steps to follow:

Detangle Hair

Kinky coily hair is prone to tangling, so it’s important to gently detangle the hair before washing. This can be done using fingers, a wide-tooth comb, or a detangling brush designed for curly hair. Always start detangling from the ends of the hair and work your way up to the roots. Be patient and gentle to avoid causing breakage.

Tips for detangling kinky coily hair:

Work in sections to make the process more manageable
Use a detangling spray or leave-in conditioner to add slip and moisture
Hold the hair at the roots to prevent pulling and breakage
If encountering a tough knot, use your fingers to gently work it out

Pre-poo Treatments

Pre-pooing, or applying a treatment to the hair before shampooing, can help protect kinky coily hair from the drying effects of cleansing. Pre-poo treatments add moisture, reduce friction during washing, and can even help detangle the hair further.

Some popular pre-poo treatments for kinky coily hair include:

Coconut oil
Avocado oil
Aloe vera gel
Conditioner mixed with honey and olive oil

Apply the pre-poo treatment to damp or dry hair, focusing on the ends and any particularly dry or tangled areas. Cover the hair with a shower cap or plastic wrap and allow the treatment to sit for at least 30 minutes, or even overnight for deep conditioning.

Section Hair

Dividing kinky coily hair into sections before washing makes the process more manageable and ensures that all strands are thoroughly cleansed and conditioned. Use hair clips or ties to create four to eight sections, depending on the thickness and length of your hair.

Working in sections also helps prevent tangling and matting during the washing process, as you can focus on cleansing and detangling each section individually.

By taking the time to properly prepare kinky coily hair before washing, you can minimize damage, maintain moisture, and set the stage for a successful and stress-free wash day.

How Often Should You Wash Kinky Coily Hair?

Determining how often to wash kinky coily hair depends on various factors, including your lifestyle, hair porosity, and personal preferences. However, there are some general guidelines you can follow:

Wash Every 1-2 Weeks

Most people with kinky coily hair find that washing every 1-2 weeks is sufficient to maintain the health and cleanliness of their hair. This allows your scalp’s natural oils to distribute throughout your strands, keeping your hair moisturized and preventing excessive dryness.

Factors That May Require More Frequent Washing

Excessive sweating: If you exercise frequently or sweat heavily, you may need to wash your hair more often to prevent product buildup and maintain scalp health.
Product buildup: Using heavy styling products or not thoroughly rinsing your hair can lead to product buildup, which may require more frequent washing to remove.
Scalp conditions: If you have a scalp condition like dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, you may need to wash your hair more frequently to manage symptoms and keep your scalp healthy.

Signs It’s Time to Wash

Pay attention to your hair and scalp to determine when it’s time for a wash. Some signs that your kinky coily hair needs cleansing include:

Itchy or flaky scalp
Dull or limp hair
Excessive product buildup
Unpleasant odor

Co-Washing Between Shampoos

If your hair feels dry or needs a moisture boost between regular washes, you can try co-washing (washing with conditioner only). Co-washing can help refresh your hair and scalp without stripping away natural oils like some shampoos can. However, be sure to use a clarifying shampoo every few washes to prevent buildup from co-washing.

Listen to Your Hair

Ultimately, the best washing frequency for your kinky coily hair depends on your individual needs. Pay attention to how your hair and scalp feel, and adjust your routine accordingly. If your hair feels dry, brittle, or tangled, you may need to wash less frequently or incorporate more moisturizing products into your regimen. If your scalp feels oily or your hair appears limp and weighed down, you may need to wash more often or use a clarifying shampoo to remove buildup.

What Is the Proper Technique for Cleansing Kinky Coily Hair?

Cleansing kinky coily hair requires a gentle and mindful approach to avoid stripping the hair of its natural oils and causing excessive dryness or breakage. Here’s a step-by-step guide to properly cleansing Type 4 hair:

Choose the Right Cleanser

Kinky coily hair benefits from sulfate-free, moisturizing cleansers that won’t strip the hair of its natural oils. Look for products specifically designed for curly or coily hair, such as:

Cream cleansers
Co-washes (conditioner-only washes)
Gentle, sulfate-free shampoos

Avoid harsh, clarifying shampoos unless necessary to remove heavy buildup, and always follow up with a deep conditioning treatment.

Wet Hair Thoroughly

Before applying any cleanser, ensure that the hair is thoroughly saturated with water. This helps the product distribute evenly and allows for a gentler cleansing process. Use lukewarm water, as hot water can be drying and cause the cuticles to raise, leading to frizz and tangles.

Apply Cleanser to Scalp

Focus on applying the cleanser directly to the scalp, rather than the hair shaft. Gently massage the product into the scalp using your fingertips, avoiding the use of nails which can cause irritation. This technique helps remove dirt, oil, and product buildup from the scalp without causing excessive friction on the hair strands.

Rinse Thoroughly

Rinse the cleanser from the hair using lukewarm water, allowing the suds to run through the lengths of the hair. Avoid rubbing or scrubbing the hair, as this can lead to tangling and breakage. Instead, gently squeeze the hair to encourage the water and cleanser to run through.

Repeat if Necessary

If the hair still feels dirty or weighed down after the first cleanse, repeat the process. However, be cautious not to over-cleanse, as this can strip the hair of its natural moisture. If you find that your hair requires frequent cleansing, consider using a co-wash or cream cleanser in between full shampoo sessions.

By using the proper technique and products when cleansing kinky coily hair, you can effectively remove dirt and buildup while maintaining the hair’s moisture balance and minimizing damage.

How Do You Condition Kinky Coily Hair Effectively?

Conditioning is a crucial step in caring for kinky coily hair, as it helps restore moisture, improve manageability, and prevent breakage. Here’s how to effectively condition Type 4 hair:

Choose the Right Conditioner

Opt for rich, moisturizing conditioners that contain nourishing ingredients such as:

Shea butter
Coconut oil
Avocado oil
Aloe vera
Glycerin

Look for products specifically designed for curly or coily hair, and consider using a protein-free conditioner if your hair is prone to protein sensitivity.

Apply Conditioner in Sections

Divide the hair into sections to ensure even distribution of the conditioner. Apply a generous amount of the product to each section, focusing on the mid-lengths and ends of the hair where moisture is needed most.

Detangle Hair

Use your fingers, a wide-tooth comb, or a detangling brush to gently work through any tangles or knots while the conditioner is in your hair. The conditioner provides slip, making it easier to detangle without causing breakage.

Leave-In or Rinse Out

Depending on your hair’s needs, you can choose to use a regular rinse-out conditioner or a leave-in conditioner.

Rinse-out conditioners: Apply after shampooing, leave in for 3-5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with cool water.
Leave-in conditioners: Apply to damp hair after shampooing and conditioning, then style as desired. These provide additional moisture and can help protect the hair from environmental stressors.

Deep Condition Regularly

Incorporate a deep conditioning treatment into your hair care routine at least once a week, or more often if your hair is particularly dry or damaged. Deep conditioners penetrate the hair shaft more deeply, providing intense hydration and nourishment.

To deep condition:

Apply a generous amount of deep conditioner to damp, detangled hair
Cover hair with a shower cap or plastic wrap
Apply heat using a hooded dryer, steamer, or heated towel for 15-30 minutes
Rinse thoroughly with cool water

By consistently using the right conditioning products and techniques, you can keep your kinky coily hair soft, manageable, and healthy.

What Are the Best Practices for Rinsing and Drying Kinky Coily Hair?

Proper rinsing and drying techniques are essential for maintaining the health and appearance of kinky coily hair. Here are some best practices to follow:

Rinsing

Use cool or lukewarm water: Hot water can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause the cuticles to raise, leading to frizz and dryness. Cool water helps seal the cuticles and lock in moisture.
Be thorough: Ensure that all product is rinsed from the hair to avoid buildup, which can lead to dryness and dullness.
Squeeze, don’t rub: When rinsing, gently squeeze the hair to encourage water and product to run through. Avoid rubbing the hair, as this can cause tangling and breakage.

Drying

Use a microfiber towel or t-shirt: Traditional terry cloth towels can be too rough for delicate kinky coily hair, causing frizz and breakage. Instead, use a microfiber towel or soft t-shirt to gently squeeze excess water from the hair.
Avoid heat styling: Heat styling tools like blow dryers and flat irons can be damaging to kinky coily hair, leading to dryness, breakage, and loss of curl definition. If you must use heat, apply a heat protectant and use the lowest setting possible.
Air dry when possible: Allow your hair to air dry whenever possible to minimize damage and maintain natural curl definition. You can use a hooded dryer on a low, cool setting if you need to speed up the drying process.
Style while damp: Kinky coily hair is most manageable and receptive to styling when it is damp. Apply leave-in conditioners, creams, or gels to damp hair to lock in moisture and define curls.

Protecting Hair Overnight

To maintain moisture and prevent frizz and tangles, it’s important to protect your hair while you sleep.

Use a satin or silk pillowcase: Cotton pillowcases can absorb moisture from your hair and cause friction, leading to dryness and frizz. Switch to a satin or silk pillowcase to minimize moisture loss and reduce friction.
Wear a satin or silk bonnet: Covering your hair with a satin or silk bonnet at night helps retain moisture and prevents tangles and frizz caused by movement during sleep.
Pineapple your hair: For longer hair, gather your curls loosely at the top of your head and secure with a soft scrunchie or hair tie. This “pineapple” method helps preserve your curl pattern and minimize flattening overnight.

With these best practices for rinsing, drying, and protecting your kinky coily hair, you can maintain its health, moisture, and beautiful natural texture.

How Do You Style Kinky Coily Hair After Washing?

Styling kinky coily hair after washing is an opportunity to define your natural curl pattern, add moisture, and create a long-lasting, beautiful look. Here are some tips and techniques for styling Type 4 hair post-wash:

Apply Leave-In Conditioner

Start by applying a leave-in conditioner to damp, detangled hair. This helps lock in moisture, improve manageability, and protect the hair from environmental stressors. Choose a leave-in that is lightweight and specifically designed for curly or coily hair.

Use a Curl Cream or Gel

To define and enhance your natural curl pattern, apply a curl cream or gel to your hair. These products provide hold, reduce frizz, and add shine to your curls.

Curl creams: These are moisturizing and provide a softer hold, ideal for those with drier hair or looser curl patterns.
Gels: These offer a stronger hold and are best for those with tighter curl patterns or those seeking a more defined look.

Apply the product in sections, using the “praying hands” method to distribute it evenly and the “scrunching” method to encourage curl formation.

Style with a Technique

There are several techniques you can use to style your kinky coily hair, depending on your desired look and the length of your hair.

Wash and go: This is a simple, low-maintenance style where you apply your products to damp hair and allow it to air dry. Use a gel or curl cream to define your curls and minimize frizz.
Twist out or braid out: These styles involve twisting or braiding damp, product-coated hair in sections, allowing it to dry, then unraveling for a defined, stretched-out curl pattern. Use a curl cream or butter for moisture and hold.
Bantu knots: This style involves sectioning the hair, applying a curl cream or gel, then twisting each section into a small knot. Once dry, unravel the knots for a defined, voluminous look.
Pineapple: For shorter hair or to preserve a style overnight, gather your curls loosely at the top of your head and secure with a soft scrunchie or hair tie.

Air Dry or Diffuse

Allow your hair to air dry whenever possible to minimize heat damage and maintain your natural curl pattern. If you need to speed up the drying process, use a diffuser attachment on your blow dryer on a low, cool setting. Avoid touching your hair while it dries to prevent frizz and disrupting the curl pattern.

Seal in Moisture

Once your hair is dry and styled, seal in moisture by applying a small amount of oil to your ends and any particularly dry areas. This helps prevent moisture loss and adds shine to your curls. Choose a lightweight oil like jojoba, argan, or sweet almond oil.

The main part in styling kinky coily hair is to prioritize moisture, be gentle, and work with your natural texture. Experiment with different products and techniques to find what works best for your unique hair type and desired look.

What Are the Tips for Maintaining Kinky Coily Hair Between Washes?

Maintaining the health and appearance of kinky coily hair between washes is crucial for preventing dryness, breakage, and preserving your style. Here are some tips to keep your Type 4 hair looking and feeling its best:

Moisturize Regularly

Kinky coily hair tends to be naturally dry, so it’s essential to keep it moisturized between washes. Use a water-based moisturizer or leave-in conditioner to hydrate your hair daily or as needed. Pay special attention to the ends of your hair, which are the oldest and most prone to dryness and breakage.

Seal in Moisture

After applying your moisturizer, seal it in with an oil or butter to prevent moisture loss. Popular options for kinky coily hair include:

Coconut oil
Shea butter
Jojoba oil
Castor oil

Apply a small amount of oil or butter to your hair, focusing on the ends and any particularly dry areas.

Protect Your Hair at Night

To prevent friction, frizz, and moisture loss while you sleep, protect your hair with a satin or silk bonnet, scarf, or pillowcase. These materials allow your hair to glide smoothly without absorbing moisture like cotton can.

If your hair is long enough, you can also try the “pineapple” method: gather your hair loosely at the top of your head and secure it with a soft scrunchie or hair tie. This helps preserve your curl pattern and prevent flattening.

Refresh Your Style

Between washes, you may need to refresh your style to revive definition and combat frizz. To refresh your hair:

Mist your hair lightly with water or a refreshing spray.
Apply a small amount of your styling product of choice, such as a curl cream or gel.
Use your fingers or a styling tool to gently re-define your curls or coils.
Allow your hair to air dry or diffuse on low heat if needed.

Avoid Over-Manipulation

Excessive touching, brushing, or styling can lead to frizz, breakage, and loss of definition. Try to minimize manipulation between washes, and be gentle when you do handle your hair. Use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb to gently detangle, and avoid using fine-toothed combs or brushes on dry hair.

Deep Condition Regularly

In addition to your regular conditioning routine, incorporate a deep conditioning treatment into your regimen every 1-2 weeks. Deep conditioners penetrate the hair shaft to provide intense hydration and nourishment, helping to maintain the health and elasticity of your kinky coily hair between washes.

By following these tips and listening to your hair’s unique needs, you can keep your kinky coily hair moisturized, defined, and healthy between wash days.

How Do You Detangle Kinky Coily Hair Gently?

Detangling kinky coily hair can be a delicate process, as this hair type is prone to tangling and breakage. Here’s how to detangle your Type 4 hair gently and effectively:

Start with Wet, Conditioned Hair

Always detangle your hair when it’s wet and coated with a slippery conditioner or detangling product. This helps reduce friction and makes the process easier and gentler on your strands. You can detangle during your regular conditioning step in the shower or apply a leave-in conditioner to damp hair after washing.

Section Your Hair

Divide your hair into manageable sections to make detangling more focused and efficient. Use hair clips or ties to separate your hair into 4-8 sections, depending on the thickness and length of your hair.

Use the Right Tools

Choose a detangling tool that is gentle on your kinky coily hair. Wide-tooth combs, detangling brushes with flexible bristles, and your own fingers are all suitable options. Avoid using fine-toothed combs or brushes, as these can cause breakage and disrupt your curl pattern.

Start from the Ends

Begin detangling at the ends of your hair and work your way up to the roots. This method allows you to gently remove knots and tangles without putting stress on your hair shaft. Take your time and be patient, working through each knot carefully.

Use Detangling Techniques

There are several techniques you can use to detangle your kinky coily hair:

Finger detangling: Use your fingers to gently separate and remove tangles. This method allows you to feel knots and work through them carefully.
Praying hands: Apply your detangling product using the praying hands method, gently smoothing it over your strands to help the knots slip out.
Shingling: Take small sections of hair and gently smooth your detangling product over each section from root to tip, helping to define your curls and remove tangles.

Be Patient and Gentle

Detangling kinky coily hair requires patience and a gentle touch. Don’t rush the process or tug on knots, as this can lead to breakage and damage. If you encounter a stubborn knot, apply more conditioner or detangling product and work through it carefully with your fingers.

Detangle Regularly

To prevent severe tangling and matting, detangle your hair regularly, ideally during each wash session. Keeping up with detangling will make the process easier and help minimize breakage over time.

Remember, the key to detangling kinky coily hair is to be patient, use plenty of slip, and work gently to avoid causing damage to your delicate strands.

What Products Are Recommended for Kinky Coily Hair?

Choosing the right products is essential for maintaining the health, moisture, and definition of kinky coily hair. Here are some recommended products for Type 4 hair:

Cleansers

Sulfate-free shampoos: Look for gentle, moisturizing shampoos that won’t strip your hair of its natural oils. Examples include SheaMoisture Curl & Shine Shampoo and As I Am Coconut Cowash.
Co-washes: Cleansing conditioners, or co-washes, are a great option for kinky coily hair, as they cleanse the hair without stripping moisture. Try Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Cleansing Cowash or Ouidad Ultra-Nourishing Cleansing Oil.

Conditioners

Deep conditioners: Kinky coily hair benefits from regular deep conditioning treatments to maintain moisture and elasticity. Look for products like Camille Rose Algae Renew Deep Conditioner or Mielle Organics Babassu Oil & Mint Deep Conditioner.
Leave-in conditioners: Use a leave-in conditioner to provide daily moisture and help detangle your hair. Options include Kinky-Curly Knot Today Leave-In Conditioner and Aunt Jackie’s Quench Moisture Intensive Leave-In Conditioner.

Stylers

Curl creams: These creams help define and moisturize your curls without weighing them down. Try Cantu Shea Butter Curl Activator Cream or Mielle Organics Pomegranate & Honey Coil Sculpting Custard.
Gels: Gels provide hold and definition for kinky coily hair. Look for products like Eco Style Professional Styling Gel or Aunt Jackie’s Don’t Shrink Flaxseed Elongating Curling Gel.
Oils and butters: Use oils and butters to seal in moisture and add shine to your hair. Popular options include coconut oil, shea butter, jojoba oil, and castor oil.

Accessories

Satin or silk bonnets, scarves, and pillowcases: These accessories help protect your hair from friction and moisture loss while you sleep.
Wide-tooth combs and detangling brushes: Use these tools to gently detangle your hair and distribute products evenly.

When selecting products for your kinky coily hair, look for ingredients that moisturize, strengthen, and nourish your strands. Some beneficial ingredients to look for include:

Shea butter
Coconut oil
Aloe vera
Honey
Glycerin
Protein (in moderation)

What works for one person may not work for another, so it may take some experimentation to find the perfect product combination for your unique hair needs. Be patient and pay attention to how your hair responds to different products to create a tailored routine that keeps your kinky coily hair healthy and thriving.